My Home Theater Upgrading Project

I always consider it a home theater if it must have a high-definition projector and a decent screen. For such a definition, I have waited for many years, for either excuses or other reasons. Until this year, I decided waiting no more! With about two months research and preparation, I have locked a Panasonic 3-LCD 1080p 3D projector (PT-AE8000U) and a 120-inch Elite screen (R120WH1) to replace my 7-year old SONY 60-inch SXRD 1080p projection TV (KDS-R60XBR2). I have got this project to its perfect completion, finally!

To me, the project has been quite eventful but also fun. So I decided to capture those major steps while the project was proceeded. I hope this will be inspiring to new ideas and your similar project.

Before:

After:

Equipment list:

Projector	Panasonic PT-AE8000U
Ceiling Mount	Mustang MV-PROJSP-FLAT-B
HDMI Cable	Monoprice 30ft Slim Series High Speed w/ RedMere Technology
Screen	Elite ezFrame 120-inch 16:9 white projection screen (R120WH1)
Throw Distance	13 feet
Wall Paint	Olympic Gray Flannel (D45-5 Flat), 2 Gallons for 760sf total area
Stand	Sonax FB-2600

1. Projector

I bought the projector Panasonic PT-AE8000U at B&H. My media room has a pre-built wiring pipe from ceiling to the front wall. The installation is of course as ceiling frontal projection. I have the range of screen size in mind at least 110 inches (diagonal), ideally 120 inches. So the throw distance, according to projectorcentral.com, would be around 11-23 feet for a screen gain of 1.0. My choice of the throw distance was then 13 feet.

2. Wall Painting

Considering a fairly high ceiling of my nedia room, I decided to paint whole room including ceiling to dark gray color. I chose flat Olympic D45-5 Gray Lannel to minimize reflection of ambient light. My room measures about total 760 sqquare feet. For 1 coat, one gallon paint can cover about 300 sf. So I've got 3 gallons of paint from Home Depot.

3. Screen

Having researched several screens, I've finally chosen Elite ezFrame 120-inch 16:9 white projection screen (R120WH1), for reasons mostly based on very positive online reviews and well as the realtively low ambient light requirement of my media roon can achieve.

This screen is tension based design and is considered a fairly easy assembling task, though wall mount slide plates were tough to be made absolutely leveled.

4. AV Stand and Room Setting

The pair of 20-year old Canadian VisionAcoustics speakers are still perform as a rock. I installed the 120-inch screen low enough, right above my speakers, so that I can maintain the right eye level for watching as I sit (well, most time lying down) on my coach sofa. For that reason, an AV stand should be in the middle and lower than the two speakers. I found Sonax FB-2600 TV stan a good fit, though not a solid wood product but looking very comtenporary. 

5. Summary

That's all the major steps that I have experienced for your planning and building a home theater.

 Now take a journey with me for about 3 minutes to see a time-lapse of this whole project. 

HDR Time-lapse Workflow for Canon 60D

Making an HDR (High Dynamic Range) time-lapse movie involves a series of procedures that require planning, a little math, camera settings and post processing. In some shooting situations, you could be in rush and might forget one or two key steps that end up realizing a less ideal production after the session. During the workflow, especially in the shooting sesison, I would always go through my checklist if possible to make sure those key steps are followed and properly setup. I would like to share such a checklist I have developed for my camera Canon 6D. This should be applicable to most of Canon EOS series models.

The workflow: Planning → Camera settings → Intervalometer settings → Shooting session → HDR tome mapping → Time-lapse movie making.

Planning

Depending on different scenes, the properly selected interval between each shot determines how the frames will flow in your final movie. Here is a table of typical intervals for popular time-lapse scenes.

Typical Scenes	Recommended Interval
Fast moving clouds Moving traffic Drivelapse (shooting while driving)	1 second
Sunset / Sunrise Moon near horizon Slow moving clouds Crowds	1-3 seconds
Moving shadows Sun or moon acrossing the sky (wide angel without clouds)	15-30 seconds
Stars or star traces	15-60 seconds or more
Fast blossom flwoers Fast growing plants	90-120 seconds
Construction site	5-15 minutes

Camera (Canon 60D)

1. set the camera on a solid tripod
2. turn OS off
3. connect a intervalometer to the camera
4. focus on your subject with AF, then turn AF off; or just use manual focus
5. set to manual (M) mode
6. set shoot mode to High-speed multiple
7. set image quality to Fine (jpeg only, no RAW if you experience slow buffering )
8. select image aspect to avoid crop in post-process (16:9 for video)
9. set WB to a manual mode according to the shooting condition (Daylight, Shade, etc.)
10. set ISO based on lighting and noice tolerance
11. set aperture based on the required DOF (see note below for avoiding flickering)
12. set shutter speed based on the required proper exposure
13. take a test shot, and check the exposure histogram and depth of field
14. if for HDR, set bracket (ABE) to +/- 1Ev, 2Ev or 3Ev depending on scene, adjust the under/over exposure scale
15. take another test HDR shot  (see Intervalometer setting for one shot), and check the histograms of the 3 shots
16. create a new folder for this time-lapse session
17. Other optional settings
    • turn Beep off
    • turn Image Review off. And also cover the LED screen off.
    • turn Auto Lighting Optimizer off


Note: Tips to avoiding flickering
• keep the same exposure for each shot, 
• shorten interval between shots whenever possible,
• keep f/8 or wider when possible. Smaller aperture (< f/8 or further) may cause shutter not going back to the exactly same position for each next shot, thus causing artificial flickering.
Note: For convenience, configure teh above settings into a customized dial C1 or C2. So for next shooting session (if similar conditions), just simply turn the dial to C1 or C2, then just start shooting.

Intervalometer

1. Delay (in seconds): A delay to release shutter of the first shot. Normally set to 0.
2. Long (in seconds): 
   • in regular mode (M), it is the time enough to cover 1 shot. Set it to equal to or a liitle longer than the shutter exposures time;
   • in HDR mode (M), it is the time enough to fire all 3 shots. Set it to equal to or a little longer than the sum of shutter exposures of the 3 shots;
   • in Bulb mode (B), it is the time to hold the shutter open. 
3. Interval (in seconds): it is the time between two shutter releases. (Note, for HDR, one release has 3 shots). An Interval should be typically set at least longer than a Long plus some processing time for camera to clean the buffering.
4. N: the number of shutter releases. Considering each will consume at least Intervalseconds when you calculate the total time for completing the shooting session.

Shooting Session

Now, you are ready to fire the shooting session. During the session, when in a windy day, try to hang more weight to the tripod for stability.

HDR Tone Mapping

There are certain HDR software for tone mapping the bracketing shots (one normal exposed, one under exposed and one over exposed with +/-xEV). I recommend HDRSoft's Photomatix Pro.

For example, if you have 3000 HDR shots in your session, use the middle set of 3 as the benchmark to develop the tone mapping first with Photomatic Pro. With fine tuning and adjustment, you save this as the template for all your 300 shots in a batch processing in Photomatix Pro, this will take quite a long time. I typically run it overnight with my iMac. Name a specific directory for your tone mapping output. After the process finishes, you will have 1000 tone-mapped images in sequence and ready for your time-lapse movie.

Time-Lapse Movie Making

As a Mac fan, I always use Quicktime Pro to make the time-lapse movie. After invoking the Quicktime Pro 7, go to File | Open Image Sequence..., in the Open window, browse to your tone-mapped image directory and just select the first image of the sequence. Quicktime Pro 7 will ask you to specify frame rate (I typically choose 24 fps). Then all images in the sequence are loaded. With resizing for the movie (1920x1080, or the size for your targetted playback device), you then save the movie by selecting File | Export..., with video quality settings at your choice, then save to a movie in your chosen format (Quicktime .MOV, H264 .mp4, or others encoders). 

With more practice, I hope you will have developed a better workflow for your specific needs. If you like to see some HDR time-lapse movies I have made, see them in my gallery.